I like to feed my hens a special handful of mealworms.
We usually buy 2 11pound bags! The birds just love them.
Even more nutritious for your birds are live mealworms.
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Dried Mealworms
I like to feed my hens a special handful of mealworms.
We usually buy 2 11pound bags! The birds just love them.
Even more nutritious for your birds are live mealworms.
Friday, November 19, 2010
Monday, November 8, 2010
Vanishing of the Bees
Vanishing of the Bees - Trailer from Bee The Change on Vimeo.
I can't wait to see this movie!
Sunday, November 7, 2010
Winterizing the hives
I've been asked what I do to overwinter my hives, honestly this is my first year so I'm not sure I'd listen to what I have to say, but here goes. Everyone has their way to do it and they are probably all right. Here's one way..
1. Feed the bees. For the last few weeks I have been feeding the bees a simple syrup (2:1 ratio sugar to water) to help them prep for the winter.
2. Stop feeding the bees. My bee mentors recommended I stop feeding them this week (11/7/10 - I'm North of Boston) to make sure whatever they have taken they can convert to food. Too much syrup is dangerous because of all the water in it. It needs time to convert. The water can create a risky environment in the hive. Too humid. Too moist. Frozen. Not good
3. I don't medicate. Ask any beekeeper and you will get a different answer. I may be making a mistake, but I think they hives are strong and I guess I just don't love the idea of medicating something that is healthy. I will let you know how it goes. Some give a dose of Fumadil B to avoid winter dysentery.
4. Put the entrance reducer in. Now is when visitors arrive. Mice! It is warm and cozy in the hive so mice often try and sneek their way into this little warm box. You want to keep them out.
5. Put a layer of homosote and insulation above your inner cover. Bees generate humidity. This moisture can be dangerous for the bees and needs to have an easy way to vent out the top of the hive. I put a homosote layer on top of the inner cover to absorb the moisture, then I put styrofoam insulation on top. Some people take a large super and fill it with hay as an insulation layer. I might try that on one hive to see how it goes.
6. Make sure your honey stores are right above the brood.
7. Leave 100 pounds of honey per hive. I should have put this first. Leave it for them, don't take it. Each frame is about 7 pounds of honey, so each super is about 70 pounds.
8. Wrap your hives in black tar paper. I wrap my hives in simple black tar paper, then tie it with string or a bungie cord. Duct tape doesn't really work in this environment. It keeps the hive dry and on sunny days it helps warm the hive so the bees can move to the honey stores. It makes the bees happy!
Everyone seems to have a different view on how to do it. This is just one way. I'd love to hear your suggestions.
L8R
1. Feed the bees. For the last few weeks I have been feeding the bees a simple syrup (2:1 ratio sugar to water) to help them prep for the winter.
2. Stop feeding the bees. My bee mentors recommended I stop feeding them this week (11/7/10 - I'm North of Boston) to make sure whatever they have taken they can convert to food. Too much syrup is dangerous because of all the water in it. It needs time to convert. The water can create a risky environment in the hive. Too humid. Too moist. Frozen. Not good
3. I don't medicate. Ask any beekeeper and you will get a different answer. I may be making a mistake, but I think they hives are strong and I guess I just don't love the idea of medicating something that is healthy. I will let you know how it goes. Some give a dose of Fumadil B to avoid winter dysentery.
4. Put the entrance reducer in. Now is when visitors arrive. Mice! It is warm and cozy in the hive so mice often try and sneek their way into this little warm box. You want to keep them out.
5. Put a layer of homosote and insulation above your inner cover. Bees generate humidity. This moisture can be dangerous for the bees and needs to have an easy way to vent out the top of the hive. I put a homosote layer on top of the inner cover to absorb the moisture, then I put styrofoam insulation on top. Some people take a large super and fill it with hay as an insulation layer. I might try that on one hive to see how it goes.
6. Make sure your honey stores are right above the brood.
7. Leave 100 pounds of honey per hive. I should have put this first. Leave it for them, don't take it. Each frame is about 7 pounds of honey, so each super is about 70 pounds.
8. Wrap your hives in black tar paper. I wrap my hives in simple black tar paper, then tie it with string or a bungie cord. Duct tape doesn't really work in this environment. It keeps the hive dry and on sunny days it helps warm the hive so the bees can move to the honey stores. It makes the bees happy!
Everyone seems to have a different view on how to do it. This is just one way. I'd love to hear your suggestions.
L8R
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Winterizing the coop
I've been asked what I do to winterize my flock and coop. Here are a few of the things I do:
1. Add Cracked Corn to their feed. They LOVE it! and it is helps keep their body temperature up.
2. I use heated dog bowls for their water, I find them much easier to use than the heated bases and metal watering towers.
3. I wrap my the outdoor part of my coop in heavy plastic so that they can still go outside. They need as much sunlight as possible during the day. By wrapping the coop it turns into a little cozy, sunny greenhouse.
4. I add more mealworms to what I give them each day. It makes them really happy.
5. I obviously go out to the coop every day, but during the freezing times I may go more often and I inspect each bird to make sure their combs and feet are ok. Sometimes I will put vaseline on their combs to protect them from frostbite (i even add some euclyptus oil to it)
6. Check for drafts and fill them.
7. I also use deep bedding for the indoor coop. I think of it like a big blanket for them!
I think that is about it, if I remember anything else I will add it. Oh, don't worry your eggs shouldn't freeze.
Please let me know if you do something else that would be helpful to list.
Later
1. Add Cracked Corn to their feed. They LOVE it! and it is helps keep their body temperature up.
2. I use heated dog bowls for their water, I find them much easier to use than the heated bases and metal watering towers.
3. I wrap my the outdoor part of my coop in heavy plastic so that they can still go outside. They need as much sunlight as possible during the day. By wrapping the coop it turns into a little cozy, sunny greenhouse.
4. I add more mealworms to what I give them each day. It makes them really happy.
5. I obviously go out to the coop every day, but during the freezing times I may go more often and I inspect each bird to make sure their combs and feet are ok. Sometimes I will put vaseline on their combs to protect them from frostbite (i even add some euclyptus oil to it)
6. Check for drafts and fill them.
7. I also use deep bedding for the indoor coop. I think of it like a big blanket for them!
I think that is about it, if I remember anything else I will add it. Oh, don't worry your eggs shouldn't freeze.
Please let me know if you do something else that would be helpful to list.
Later
Ruling the Roost - funny
By John Tilton STAFF WRITER
The Daily News of Newburyport Fri Oct 22, 2010, 03:58 AM EDT NEWBURYPORT —
Orren Fox is a guy who knows chickens. With more than eight prizes for his birds that include best standard in show and grand champion, this 13-year-old boy is becoming a local expert. This year at the Topsfield Fair, the young Orren took home three prizes in the youth category with the best bird in show, the grand champion and the best bantam. READ HERE
The Daily News of Newburyport Fri Oct 22, 2010, 03:58 AM EDT NEWBURYPORT —
Orren Fox is a guy who knows chickens. With more than eight prizes for his birds that include best standard in show and grand champion, this 13-year-old boy is becoming a local expert. This year at the Topsfield Fair, the young Orren took home three prizes in the youth category with the best bird in show, the grand champion and the best bantam. READ HERE
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